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Contemplations and musings on the wonders of perfume and scent.


About me--Ronny Geller. I live in London and have loved perfume for as long as I can remember.

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Ronny (Saturday roundup): I am surprised at how man…
Bee (Saturday roundup): How cool that man-cub lov…
Ronny (Saturday roundup): Holly, Thank you. Indeed,…
Holly (Saturday roundup): Well done to the man cub …
Ronny (Problematic thing…): Tania, I do think the Ell…
Ronny (Problematic thing…): Bee, I’ve got red cheeks …
Bee (Problematic thing…): Must try this concealer! …
tania (Problematic thing…): Hmmmm. That concealer doe…
Bee (Bad design): Weird things sometimes ha…
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Problematic things that are still perfect

Tuesday 28 February 2012 at 09:29 am

Sorry, not perfume. I'm still not feeling brilliant which isn't fun. 

Anyway, I briefly wrote recently about a makeup brand called Ellis Faas. It's one of those obscure (well, sort of -- you can get it at Sephora in the US, which makes it much less obscure) makeup artist brands.

Almost every writeup I'd read was fulsomely positive. Except for the delivery system, which seemed to be seriously hit or miss.

Anyway, I've been on this ongoing search for a good concealer because I'm at that time in my life when some things are better concealed.

The stuff is available online, but you can't (obviously) test it that way. So, I wrote to the EF customer service people. They wrote back. Always a good sign regarding the quality of a company's customer service.  Then, a woman named Monique sent me a few samples of concealer. I tried them, found a colour that was dead-on-right for me. So, I procured Ellis Faas concealer and foundation (in the pen, more on that in a minute) from Liberty when I visited London recently. 

An aside: I also bought a lip colour online, something labelled L201 which is supposed to mimic the colour of blood. It does -- and it's great. And, I really love it. I can make it look like a red stain on my lips or go a bit stronger.

So, that concealer. The delivery system for EF products is unique. Silver bullet-shaped dispensers that you click from the base. Product then comes out onto the brush or sponge applicator. Problem is sometimes the dispensers work fine (my lip colour); sometimes they don't. The top on the concealer pen stopped clicking shut after two uses; the foundation pen never worked properly.

I wrote to Monique about this. She is sending me replacements. She did say this doesn't happen very often.

The thing is this stuff is so godawfulgood people seem to be willing to overlook any delivery issues. This is expensive makeup. There's no way round it, and I expect it's as pricey as it is because of the packaging. A lot of thought was put into it, but alas there are still some glitches. 

The reviews on MUA comment on the hit or miss system. However, reviewers also say they're willing to deconstruct the pens that don't work because there's nothing that comes close to this stuff out there. I can see their point.

The concealer I have, S202, comes out looking like it should be a bit too pinky-orange for me skintone. Instead, it simply disappears into my skin like it was made specifically for me. I don't have real under-eye circles, just discolouration. I've also got some brown spots on my face and tend to go red around my nose. S202 covers all of it without giving me a mask look or looking like I've got anything on at all actually. It doesn't slide into fine lines.

So, something of a miracle worker.

In a way these products, in particular the concealer, are like a holy grail perfume -- something you find that you both love the smell of and feels like it was made just for you and your body chemistry. You don't mind that other people might wear it because it's still going to be fully and wholly unique to you.

While I await my replacement pens (the foundation is also available in a pump bottle, but I don't need that much stuff, which is why I was after the pen in the first place) I've taped the concealer lid shut. I'm going to have a go at the foundation pen with pliers and then decant the stuff into a jar. "Is it really worth all the trouble?" you ask.  Yes, it is.

Bad design

Friday 24 February 2012 at 11:42 am

My brain seems to have come back on line this morning. Not completely, mind you: I went into Londis to buy something very specific and completely forgot what it was meant to be. I ended up coming out with a load of things in an attempt to make sure I actually bought what I'd set out to. I'm still not sure if I did.

It was Wednesday before I could address the mounting pile of clothing that required ironing. While I managed to do it, I had to lie down for an hour's rest afterwards.

However, the first thing I pulled off the pile and set on the ironing board set me thinking for the rest of the week: one of the man-cub's long-sleeved cotton tee-shirts. This one was from H&M, a brand which usually offers very decent quality kid clothing.

I laid the shirt out on the board and promptly had a hissy fit. It's mid-blue and medium weight. In the middle of the front it was dappled with discolouration. I knew I had returned it to the machine for a second wash, pre-treating it with the expectation all would be well. The shirt is a month or so old, so it was meant to last the cub for a fair while. In fact, it can no longer be worn out of the house. I don't mean to be a cow about this, but when did children's clothing become so poorly put together that you end up with this kind of staining?

Then, I saw a picture on a website of a former model named Janice Dickenson. I remembered her from the 1980s because she had a face that looked both wonderfully exotic, almost animal, and truly innocent. In the current blog pic, she's clearly had plastic surgery work done. She now looks all wrong. What was a great nose is now slightly flanged. Lovely full rounded lips are now the ass end of trout pout. Great cheek bones are now caricature hollows.  And, she's done something truly weird to her chin. A case of (re)design gone seriously wonky. 

In perfumery, Caron's classic fragrances have, in general, been reformulated into dreck.

I've never really been partial to Carons or the Caronade base, but several years ago was very excited to try Alpona, a now-discontinued green chypre which should have been right up my alley.

Alas, Alpona did a classic fall off a cliff. With a notes list like this, I could barely contain myself: lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, rose, orange, jasmine, orchid, thyme, patchouli, myrrh, cedar, sandalwood, musk and oakmoss. But, on me Alpona turned out to be a cold lysol/pine mess. Indistinct, underdeveloped (meaning notes peaked out, rather than stood out). The drydown was nice ... ish ... sort of.

To me, rather than being simply a bad perfume, Alpona felt badly designed, which for some reason got me terribly frustrated back when I tried it and obviously had enough of an impact to make me think of it now. I tried it several times before giving up because it didn't seem fair to the ingredients for this to fall apart so badly. 

I can't come up with another fragrance in perfumery that so baldly represents poor design to me than this one.

Better

Wednesday 22 February 2012 at 09:20 am

My body waited until we'd arrived home, after a lovely birthday celebration, to inform me it really was very unhappy and could we go to bed. Meaning: I've been rather unwell for the past few days. Things are somewhat better today. 

I've managed to fulfill orders no problem, but I have a number of perfumes for which I need to make samples and I simply can't do it. I can't bear the idea of being saturated in fragrance as I am when filling vials for 2-3 different perfumes.

This isn't to say everything smells bad. The man-cub's birthday gift was a pot of lily of the valley, one of my favourite flowers and a harbinger of spring. I can manage its delicate fragrance and it makes me happy to see the little bell flowers in the morning. I think a pot of hyacinth would be too much, but the LOTV is perfect.

Speaking of spring makes me think of other favourite spring flowers. For me, these are violet and lilac. While I don't love these in perfume, I adore them in their natural state.

Marking significant occasions

Monday 20 February 2012 at 07:04 am
Within perfumista-land, we mark significant occasions with perfumes. Some people recall what they wore on their 30th or 40th birthday; a first date; their wedding fragrance. 

As until very recently I had rolling signature scents and didn't change for particular events I can only recall what I wore on X or Y birthday etc by remembering what one perfume I wore during that particular period of time. 

But, as I've discussed on this blog, my fragrant ways have changed. I've now got a small, but choice wardrobe of fragrances. I may wear some more than others, but they all have a place in my perfumed life. 

Now, a couple of significant events (one past; one to come) require(d) a choice from my small stash. 

Both events are truly significant, but in different ways. 

Yesterday, I marked what many would view as a 'big' birthday. Friends did a very simple (but choice) lunch, with which we had a very decent champagne and a bottle of Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1990, a premier crou red wine, which I've been carting around from the US to the various houses I've lived in here, keeping it for an occasion just like this one. The bottle has lived in Brooklyn, then spent a year in storage (during which time I lived in Amsterdam), then moved to Stoke Newington, Stamford Hill and Cricklewood in London, and then journeyed down the A30, M4, M5 and A376 first to Exton and then to Lympstone. A well-travelled bottle. 

It accompanied roast chicken, roast potatoes and veg, plus a gorgeous rhubard fool. I was a bit worse for wear after lunch (I'm an alcohol light-weight). 

To mark the day I wore Tauer Perfumes long-gone limited edition Orris from a bottle containing about a half an inch of juice. 

Orris sits among the top five of my current bottles. It's all about rootiness -- and wafts of a particularly sublime time in my teenager-hood. But don't be fooled: it's almost austere smokiness is completely adult, teetering on that fascinating edge between restrained and wild. 

Perfect to mark having been on this earth for half a century. 

Event number 2 comes up in early March so I have time to contemplate what sort of fragrance would be appropriate for my citizenship ceremony (yup, you read right: I get to pledge my allegiance to Queen Liz). But, in truth, I am ridiculously excited about finally being able to get a passport for the country in which I've lived for close to 15 years. 

The ceremony takes place in Exeter. I get to take two guests and there's a buffet after we pledge. After that, I get to apply for a British passport. The whole process has taken months and been just that little bit fraught. 

So, what should it be? What should I wear on 9 March? My current thinking is as follows:

Guerlain Shalimar ... because I came to it late and it is seriously beloved.

Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit ... I feel very adult and self-contained in this, even though it smells somewhat of knickers flung thoughtlessly around a room in preparation for something wonderful. 

Theo Fennell Scent ... a truly gorgeous saffron-musk that is now discontinued. 

Let me know what you think :)

Good shopping

Wednesday 08 February 2012 at 3:33 pm
Recently, on the Makeup Alley fragrance board, someone asked for recommendations for where to shop for perfume in London (ie, bricks & mortar shops). I sent her off to read the shopping guide on Persolaise's blog, which I think is a great comprehensive resource. She did too :) I got a lovely 'thank you' email from her. 

This sent me off thinking about where I've enjoyed shopping for and sampling perfume in the past (I make the distinction because sometimes all I've done is sampled stuff, without buying, and still experienced superlative customer service). 

I wrote whole posts three times on this theme and then decided all were no-gos, which thus got deleted.
 
This is a subject on which I can get very very, exceptionally, grumpy. Currently, a perfume consumer can get almost anything he or she desires online. So, visiting a shop has to have other, very specific attractions. 

My key basis for judging in-store shopping experience is that I get the exact same gracious reception if I come in dressed in jeans and no makeup with baby buggy in tow as when I'm well put-together and a lone adult. I know I can buy the newest Serge Lutens at a myriad of places/sites. So, the basis for my buying it in *your* shop is the quality of service. 

Given the factors set out above, my absolute best, fave shopping experiences have been at the first Le Labo shop in New York and at Ormonde Jayne's original store in the Royal Arcade, off New Bond Street, in London. Both places provided superlative perfume experiences that were relaxed and unhurried, underscored by wonderful customer care. 

So, what have been your best bricks & mortar perfume shopping experiences?

An antidote to the cold

Monday 06 February 2012 at 07:21 am
In one of those strange, cosmic things, my copy of The Little Book of Perfumes automatically opens to the page containing a review of Chanel Cristalle. 

This is a Chanel I'd never pursued (for unknown reasons), but it's a fragrance I can sample here, rather than having to wait until I visit London. Both the local Debenhams and House of Fraser offer all the regular Chanels. 

I figured the book's behaviour had a reason, so I made a point of seeking it out recently.

On Groundhog Day, I visited House of Fraser and did the deed. I have no idea if the groundhog saw his or her shadow, but given the weather here, I expect we've still got another six weeks of winter. 

Anyway, House of Fraser at 11:30 in the morning. Shopping finished and a bit over an hour to go till a lunch date. I sprayed a blotter and my wrist, re-wrapped myself in hat, scarf and mittens and trundled off to have tea and figure out how much money I'd dropped at Boots, the sewing shop, GAP (socks only) and M&S (the man-cub is into thermals suddenly -- I wonder why... ; I finally got fingerless gloves for indoor wear). 

Got myself organised, drank some tea. Then, I smelled my wrist. 

Cristalle was released in 1974, which now feels like a fair while ago. I've worn No 5 and No 22; sampled No 19, Allure, Pour Monsieur, Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie, Antaeus, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle, Egoiste, Gardenia, 31 Rue Cambon, Coromandel, No 18, Eau de Cologne, 28 La Pausa. Meaning: I've played around with Chanel a fair bit. 

The first run at this post was gushing. Then, I slept on it. 

Turin and Sanchez label this a green chypre. The notes list for the original eau de toilette I found (per Now Smell This) includes lemon, herbs, jonquil (where else has that popped up in perumery?), jasmine, honeysuckle, rosewood, hyacinth, oakmoss and vetiver. Which just sounds sublime. 

The current stuff is, apparently, more floral, softer, perhaps less faceted. Still, I think this is some great juice. It is green on me -- sharp, spiky, translucent sappy green, without ever tipping off the cliff into sour. 

And, fascinatingly (is that a word?), it is not sweet. Never goes there. It lasts for ages. Sprayed on at 11:30, it was still going strong eight hours later. 

It feels like the precursor to lots of other more recent good green fragrances (I'm thinking, in particular, about Gobin-Daude's wonderful, now gone, Sous le Buis).

I accept that this fragrance may be less than it was originally, but for me it's still head and shoulders above so much that is out there. Much of what I read about it includes references to it being best in spring and summer. That makes sense to me, given how startlingly green it is. 

If you haven't had a go with this, it's easy to find and well worth the effort. 

Welcome to February

Wednesday 01 February 2012 at 09:25 am

Indeed, the month in which we will finally be 'feeling' winter and Valentine's Day occurs. 

The new house Askett & English, which offers elegant, understated colognes, is now available on the website. As Bee pointed out, these are definitely fragrances to be sprayed with abandon.

We're into the second month of my rolling discounts experiment. January saw the Lostmarc'h perfumes at 10% off their regular prices.

In February, just to be a bit tongue in cheek on the Valentine's Day theme, in the happiest sort of way, the rose-centred fragrances offered on Scent-and-Sensibility Perfume are marked down between 10% and 15%, depending on the scent. So, if you were hankering after a rose for your beloved, one for yourself or a gift for someone special, February is your month to indulge. 

Regarding Valentine's shipping, please keep in mind that the last shipping date for First Class Signed For is 9 February; for Special Deliver Next Day, it's 11 February.

But fear not: if Valentine's Day isn't your rose-scented cup of tea, you can get yourself something rosy to banish the winter blues through 29 February.  Yes, you read that right: it's a leap year. 

Which I find ridiculously exciting.

Interesting destinations